Walk the Anaga: Exploring Tenerife’s Remote Northeast Corner

Tenerife is renowned for its bustling resorts and sun-drenched beaches, but its northeast corner offers a different kind of magic. The Anaga Rural Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, is a haven for nature lovers and hikers. This remote region is a world away from the island’s tourist hubs, where potato farmers and goat herders still live in cave-house villages among ancient laurisilva woodlands. Walking the trails of Anaga is a journey through time, nature, and tradition. Here’s your guide to exploring this pristine wilderness.

Discovering Anaga Rural Park

Anaga Rural Park is a lush, mountainous region that stretches across Tenerife’s northeastern tip. Its dramatic landscapes, deep ravines, and dense forests are home to a rich variety of flora and fauna.

  • Laurisilva Forests: The park is renowned for its laurisilva forests, a type of subtropical rainforest that once covered much of Southern Europe. These ancient woodlands are teeming with life, including rare plant species, colorful birds, and endemic insects. Walking through the laurisilva is like stepping into a prehistoric world, with towering trees, moss-covered rocks, and a constant chorus of birdsong.
  • Cave-House Villages: Traditional cave-house villages like Chinamada provide a glimpse into a way of life that has remained unchanged for centuries. These communities live off the land, farming potatoes and herding goats, and their simple, self-sufficient lifestyle is deeply connected to the natural environment.

Hiking in Anaga: Trails and Tips

The best way to explore Anaga is on foot. The park offers a network of well-marked trails that cater to all levels of fitness and experience. Here are some of the top routes to consider:

  • Cruz del Carmen to Punta del Hidalgo: This is one of the most popular hikes in Anaga. Starting at the Cruz del Carmen crossroads, the trail descends through lush forests and rugged terrain to the coastal town of Punta del Hidalgo. The 14-kilometer route takes approximately four hours to complete and offers stunning views of the mountains, forests, and ocean.
    • Chinamada: Along the way, you’ll pass through Chinamada, where you can see traditional cave houses and perhaps meet some of the local farmers. The village is a perfect spot to take a break and enjoy the serene landscape.
    • Varied Terrain: The trail features a mix of terrains, from dense forest paths to rocky slopes and open fields. Be prepared for some steep sections, especially as you approach Punta del Hidalgo.
    • Getting Back: Once you reach Punta del Hidalgo, you can catch the Titsa bus back to Santa Cruz, making it a convenient one-way hike.
  • Circular Route from Cruz del Carmen: For those who prefer a shorter hike, the circular route from Cruz del Carmen is a great option. This 3-hour loop takes you through some of the most beautiful parts of the laurisilva forest and offers several viewpoints with panoramic vistas of the Anaga mountains.
  • Playa de Benijo: If you’re up for a coastal adventure, the hike to Playa de Benijo is spectacular. Starting from the village of Taganana, the trail winds through terraced fields and down to the remote black-sand beach of Benijo. The rugged coastline and dramatic waves make this a favorite spot for photographers and nature lovers.

Guided Walking Packages

For those who prefer a more structured experience, several operators offer guided walking packages in Anaga. Companies like Headwater provide multi-day packages that include accommodation, meals, and guided hikes. These packages are ideal for hikers who want to explore the best trails without the hassle of planning logistics.

Practical Tips for Hiking in Anaga

  1. Preparation: Wear sturdy hiking boots and bring plenty of water, snacks, and a first aid kit. The weather in Anaga can be unpredictable, so pack a waterproof jacket and layers.
  2. Navigation: While the trails are well-marked, it’s a good idea to carry a map or use a GPS device. Mobile signal can be spotty in remote areas.
  3. Respect Local Communities: The villages in Anaga are home to traditional farming communities. Respect their privacy and property, and always follow local guidelines and customs.
  4. Safety: The terrain can be challenging, with steep drops and uneven paths. Take your time, especially on descents, and be mindful of your footing.
  5. Wildlife and Flora: Anaga is a biodiversity hotspot. Take care not to disturb the wildlife and plant life, and stick to the designated trails to protect the environment.

Exploring the Culture and Cuisine

After a long hike, reward yourself with some local cuisine. The villages in Anaga offer a taste of traditional Canarian food, made from fresh, locally-sourced ingredients.

  • Local Dishes: Try dishes like “carne de cabra” (goat meat stew), “puchero canario” (a hearty vegetable and meat stew), and “queso asado” (grilled cheese with mojo sauce). These dishes are often prepared using age-old recipes passed down through generations.
  • Malvasia Wine: Pair your meal with a glass of Malvasia wine, a sweet wine that has been produced in the Canary Islands for centuries. Its rich, fruity flavor is a perfect complement to the hearty Canarian dishes.

Conclusion

Walking the Anaga trails is more than just a hike; it’s an immersive experience that connects you with the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Tenerife’s remote northeast corner. From the ancient laurisilva forests to the traditional cave-house villages, every step of the journey reveals a different aspect of this enchanting region. Whether you choose to hike independently or join a guided tour, exploring Anaga is an adventure that promises breathtaking landscapes, rich biodiversity, and a deep sense of tranquility. So lace up your hiking boots, pack your essentials, and set off to discover the wild beauty of Anaga.